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Loft Problem


woodworks

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Woodworks:

 

The problem is most likely related to the underlying geometry of the objects you are trying to loft. I exploded one of the objects and found that you had the end of one line extending over and beyond the end of a second line and that some of your lines were not parallel to the UCS they supposedly were created in. Bottom line is you did not pay attention to detail (i.e. - sloppy work). After correcting two of the eight profiles that are arrayed around the blue guide path I was able to loft them sucessfully.

 

Go back and correct each profile and try again.

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Woodworks: Here's the proof. I took the two profiles on the right hand side of the guide path, editted their geometry and then lofted them (object in red).

 

P09_04.jpg

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REMARK:

After redrawing the objects I was able to loft each section. Actually it would loft from left to right almost the whole length. Not sure why it wouldn't make the last corner but I lofted the last section by itself and used union. I've been using cad to draw cabinets and millwork, 3d is really fun. Working my way through a textbook in my spare time. Appreciate your help

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You're welcomed. Just be careful in your construction of objects. I know that some CAD users draw one half of an object and mirror it. I don't do it that way. You also have to be aware of overlapping lines as they will mess up any 3D work somewhere down the line. Lastly, always pay attention to your UCS and what plane you're drawing on. Good luck.

 

Cabinets and millwork...really? Then I have a question for you. I see jobs listed for CAD operators familiar with millwork and they tend to pop up often. Why such a turnover in the field? Could you post a typical millwork drawing so we can see what it is you do? Why aren't you using millwork software or are you (as an add-on to AutoCAD)? Thanks.

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I have been building cabinets and millwork for many years. Got into 2d cad to have drawings for customers. AutoCad 2007 was available at the time. When I reached 3d I got hooked. Still have alot to learn. I installed theses cabinets and mantle last week. I'll get final photos once they are painted. I would eventually like to hire on designing and drawing for some company. Let some younger guys have the sawdust. Not alot of jobs available in my area. Thanks again for your help. I'm sure you will see more questions from me.

Render Final.pdf

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I build Furniture,Built-Ins & Architectural Millwork. These things all actually fall into the catogory of Architectural Millwork or Millwork from the contractors point of view.

 

These drawings (rendered) are a design idea/proposal for a possible project.

 

What AutoCad means for my work is actual replication in advance. What I mean by that is that there are a lot of "Drop & Drag" software programs on the market that contain generic moldings and other architectural components that can be used to render a "facsimile" of the actual end millwork product.

 

I create my own moldings and grind my own molding cutters and rosette cutters etc. in house. Part of that process is to first draw the molding profiles with Autocad. When I design a project I am able to use solid objects that are accurate to .010" of what the actual product moldings etc will be. I don't think there are many like me who spend the time it takes to do this with Autocad. I am hoping it will pay off in the long run and get much faster.

 

I recently (two weeks back) purchased Bryce and import my 3D models as 3DS files for rendering. I gotta say that I am liking rendering a lot better now that I have Bryce. It is much easier for me than trying to render in Autocad was.

Sweeney 19J.jpg

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Thank you a1harps not only for the images but for the explanation that accompanied them. I like the level of detail you have shown and sense that you have a true dedication to your work. I admire that.

 

The house I live in was built in 1907 and I am fortunate to have some fairly nice mouldings around the windows and doors and at the top of the baseboard. Unfortunately these types of mouldings are no longer available at the big box stores. Would someone like yourself be able to reproduce them?

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A1Harps, Very nice work. Had attached a drawing and received a reply. Started out doing cabinets and trim in custom homes 30 plus years ago. Last 6 years am working out of shop. I'm still learning / experimenting with AuotCad but here's a couple renderings of projects. Not familiar with how to post images so please see attachments.

 

Remarks thanks again for your help

Mohogany Render.pdf

Copy of e Changing Table Final.pdf

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The house I live in was built in 1907 and I am fortunate to have some fairly nice mouldings around the windows and doors and at the top of the baseboard. Unfortunately these types of mouldings are no longer available at the big box stores. Would someone like yourself be able to reproduce them?

 

Absolutely ReMark. It is one of my favorite flavors of work....reproducing "period moldings".

 

That process is one of the things that keeps me hooked on autocad. To reproduce a molding, I start by acquiring a small piece of the molding and then drawing the profile (end section) with cad. Vintage moldings very often used sections of ellipses rather than radius's for the curved features in the moldings shape.

 

Needing to use ellipses was a problem for me until I met Fucarro and he loaned me a lisp that coverts ellipses to polylines. After I convert the ellipses with Fucarro's lisp, I join them to the other lines in the drawings molding profile useing "pedit" and can then extrude them to use in and as solid models.

 

Once I get the profile drawn, I have a plot scale setting that I use that allows me to print my drawn profile out on paper @ actual real life scale. I can then put the molding being reproduced right on the paper, line it up end wise and check my work....make adjustments to the drawing if necessary. Replicated moldings need to be very precise in the case where they will be cut and mitered to join together with their antique "cousins".

 

I then use the full scale profile drawing on paper as a guide to grind and fashion a molding cutter for use in my shop. I do this grinding by hand and eye.

 

When all is right with the newly created high speed steel tooling, I can run one foot or 1000 feet of the molding in any species of wood that is available.

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Oregon! Could you move a little closer to the east coast? Shipping is gonna kill me! LOL

 

Well I have a little piece of moulding I'd like to send you. Maybe even two. One goes at the top of my baseboard. The other is the main moulding used around almost every door and window in the house.

 

Can I contact you via PM here at CADTutor?

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A1Harps, Very nice work. Had attached a drawing and received a reply. Started out doing cabinets and trim in custom homes 30 plus years ago. Last 6 years am working out of shop. I'm still learning / experimenting with AuotCad but here's a couple renderings of projects. Not familiar with how to post images so please see attachments.

 

Remarks thanks again for your help

 

Thankyou Woodworks, it is a comfort to know I am not the only woodworker out here drawing jobs with Autocad. Like you I am also learning to use this software but I am still hands on in the shop these days as well.

 

The best thing I have learned about recently is Bryce 3D software for rendering. The software is only about $50.00 American and it was a night and day different for me when it came to rendering a solid model compared to rendering with Autocad.

 

The three renderings above were all in the 18 to 21 minutes range of rendering times apiece.

 

If I had to pinpoint the best difference I would say it is the lighting that is way easier to set up in Bryce. But really, the whole process is faster and easier for me to get a grip on.

 

Your work looks very nice! To post a rendering on this forumor in emails etc...when you are in the Autocad rendering dialogue you need to choose the "Render To File" option. Choose a location(folder) to send and save the file to in your computer and then most importantly, save the drawing as a "JPEG".

 

I noticed that bitmap files are too large to be accepted here but if you convert a bitmap to a JPEG it reduces the file size tremendously.

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Oregon! Could you move a little closer to the east coast? Shipping is gonna kill me! LOL

 

Well I have a little piece of moulding I'd like to send you.

 

Ha ..you ain't kidding! Sorry ReMark...I didn't mean to suggest that I was a good candidate for your job. Only that there are lots of woodworkers especially on the eastern seaboard that can match your molding.

 

I belong to a professional woodworkers forum and I will see if I can find a good reference for you in the Norwalk Connecticut area.

 

I will get back to you on that ASAP.

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