woodsy Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 (edited) right basically i finished college last year and due to the way everything is nowadays there are next to no jobs and to keep myself busy i have been giving myself little projects to keep myself occupied, anyway i decided to draft a 3d model of a 2 storey house in cad but im having a little trouble with the 1st floor. i appreciate it if someone could help with the next few steps just to get me on my way woodsyhouse.zip edit: added zipped .dwg file Edited September 10, 2010 by woodsy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 What next few steps did you have in mind? What trouble are you having with the first floor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsy Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 not really too sure what i should be doing next, should i do the layout of the 1st floor? how would i go about fixing the joists so it would create an opening for the stairs just anything that you would do next will be helpfull as iv been at this for a oo few hours and my brain is getting tired ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 You did not create the 3D structure from a 2D floor plan? What do you have in mind for the second floor or haven't you worked up a 2D floor plan for that either? As far as creating an opening in your joists for the stairs you could SLICE the appropriate joists. You'll have to properly finish the framing around the opening too. It might help us if you posted the dwg file (may have to be zipped) so anyone trying to assist you can view the drawing better than just looking at the above image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
profcad Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 You may want to review how wooden floors are constructed. The floor joist should on a sill and enclosed in a band similar to the graphic below. I would construct the floor the sill, then the band and place the joist next. Then cut the opening. Be sure to double up the joist around the opening. Then add the subfloor and you are ready for the walls. There is an online book called "Details for Conventional Wood Frame construction" located at http://www.awc.org/pdf/wcd1-300.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsy Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 cheers for the help appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsy Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 and i havent drawn the 2d plans for the floor yet and il zip the dwg file now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 I guess I'm still stuck in the past. I would have worked everything out in a 2D floor plan (people do change their minds!) before moving to 3D. Thanks for the file. I think profcad was using his super powers because I missed that small detail he caught. Time for some new glasses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Tillman Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Actually, Procad did catch something but I don't see too many houses being built this way. It's too time consuming and costs too much. The way they slap together houses these days you're lucky if they even use a band joist let alone a separate sill. And most houses in the southern US are slab on grade so there is no crawl space as shown. But if you want to frame out a stairwell opening you need to study the SLICE command and get used to using SOLIDEDIT. Also I would encourage you to study how to move and orient your UCS to where you will need it. SLICE only works when you slice in the appropriate plane. I was very confused when I first started 3D but once I got the UCS mastered it became a very easy task. And just like out in the field I will often draw myself a 2x4 or 2x10 at full length, place it where I want it such as a floor joist or roof rafter and then SLICE (saw) it off where needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
profcad Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Most of the homes in Oklahoma are also slab on grade with no basements. We typically use I-Joist (TJI's) instead of dimensional lumber for the 2nd floor joist. Note: A sill is not needed for the 2nd story, the band and joist are laid directly on the top plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Try living in a house built back in the days of "balloon construction". No fire stops. Great for running electrical wires from the cellar to the attic but pure hell when a fire breaks out. Most of the firemen immediately go to the roof, punch a few holes and start flooding the spaces between the studs with water. Then again, a 2x4 or a 2x8 really measures that size (all rough hewn). Not like the "dimensional" lumber we have today. You should see the 2x12 roof framing rafters I have in my attic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencaz Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Most of the homes in Oklahoma are also slab on grade with no basements. We typically use I-Joist (TJI's) instead of dimensional lumber for the 2nd floor joist. Note: A sill is not needed for the 2nd story, the band and joist are laid directly on the top plate. No Basements in Tornado Alley!!? That's un-usual. Are storm shelters optional and detached? KC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
profcad Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 I built several homes back in the 80's using balloon framing..didn't like it one bit. For new construction, many builder are adding storm shelters under the garage floors with sliding doors. For existing homes, you can get one installed in the garage floor or have it detached. On the more expense homes, they may include a safe room. I live in Norman, OK and on May 10th we had two tornadoes touch down 1/2 mile south of me. Lost the car to hail damage the same day. I wished we had a basement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Full basements here in the Northeast. Plenty of space to put all your junk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsy Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 really appreciate the help given i have since figured out the problems i had a moment of brain deadness i shall upload the finished product when its finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Tillman Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 It's funny you mention TJI's. They were orginally manufactured by a company called Truss-Joist but I think they were purchased by Weyhauser or one of the other big lumber companies years ago. I used to work for Truss Joist in 1983-1985 and selling these higher priced engineered products against dimensional lumber was a difficult sell. Now days you see them all over the place. But even back then the homebuilders would usually just run the exterior sheathing past the floor joists in lieu of installing the band joist. Like I said, and especially in the Houston, TX area back in 1984, the builders did not want to hear how good, they only wanted the hear how cheap. The same philisophy still exists today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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