Raudel Solis Project 11

[Raudel Solis]

update. Changed window style.
the bricks are burgundy uniform.
window extrusion past the wall @ 1'8"
glass thickness for windows @ 0.3"
project 11 window finish.jpg

[Jack_O'neill]

update. Changed window style.
the bricks are burgundy uniform.
window extrusion past the wall @ 1'8"
glass thickness for windows @ 0.3"
Attachment 28808

That certainly changed the look. I'll throw in a bit of advice too here, if I may. Don't want to make this sound like "pick on Raudel day" but if you want to do this stuff right, either go to your public library and check out a couple of books on home design and construction, or find some on Amazon or even you local Lowes or Home Depot. They will have DIY books that will give you the basics. You obviously have a flare for using the software, but a few hours of study would help you grasp the basics of structure and vastly improve your projects. If they can't build it, it don't matter how pretty it is.

Take for instance your bay window in the latest version. Looks nice, but you really need to slope the top of the window or put some sort of awning or roof or something there to handle rain and snow. You don't have to worry nearly as much about keeping water out of the structure if you don't provide horizontal surfaces for it to pool on. What's worse, lets say the installer actually makes a small mistake and the top slopes toward the building a little bit. Now you have a funnel running water into your living room!

The sun room or whatever you want to call the glassed in area looks great, but you'll need to check local codes about using commercial curtainwall in houses. I don't do much residential stuff aside from the occasional apartment/condo complex so I don't know if there an issue there or not. At any rate, curtainwall products handle water by providing places for it to run to, collecting it and channeling it back towards the outdoors. For that to be successful, you need concrete at the bottom for it to sit on in order to provide a water proof seal. It also flexes quite a bit with wind and building movement so you need good structure next to and above it. Some products anchor into the vertical members at each side, some only at the top and bottom. I've never seen it anchored at the bottom in anything external but concrete or steel, and I don't believe any wood structure there would be acceptable for strength or the water issue.

You're off to a good start, and now would be the time to grasp some good design techniques before you develop any bad habits that will be hard to break. On the other hand, if you are looking to do purely artistic stuff with no intention of ever seeing any of it built, that's fine too. A good artist can make a lot of money if the right person sees his art. There's no reason you couldn't do both if you wish, as long as you remember what I said earlier...it don't matter how pretty it is if you can't build it.

[Raudel Solis]

it don't matter how pretty it is if you can't build it.

i made a thread a few months back about the role of an architect.

isnt that what architects do? design stuff that cant exist in the real world at the moment

iv'e checked out a few books a while back and all i saw in them designs by people with no prior structural back ground.
i have a work book "architectural drafting and design" 4th edition, it seem rather useless to me without the 3rd, 2nd and 1st edition
but it does come with quite a lot of blue prints.

about the window. the dimensions i used will not cause water to drip on the top flat area of the window extrusion.

also you may find this funny.

Google windows and see the result

[Jack_O'neill]

i made a thread a few months back about the role of an architect.

isnt that what architects do? design stuff that cant exist in the real world at the moment

Sometimes they do, yes. Most of the time they have to come down to earth or they don't stay in business long.

iv'e checked out a few books a while back and all i saw in them designs by people with no prior structural back ground.

And how did you determine this? I wasn't talking about architecture or design books, but actual "how-to" books about construction.

i have a work book "architectural drafting and design" 4th edition, it seem rather useless to me without the 3rd, 2nd and 1st edition
but it does come with quite a lot of blue prints.

You use a dictionary without every previous edition ever made don't you? All "4th edition" means is that it's the 4th time the book has been published (this is usually done to update the information contained in it).

about the window. the dimensions i used will not cause water to drip on the top flat area of the window extrusion.

Fine, how are you going to keep it from blowing on there? Hard to control the wind.

also you may find this funny.

Google windows and see the result

This was my result. I don't get it...what's funny?
google window.jpg

[Raudel Solis]

And how did you determine this? I wasn't talking about architecture or design books, but actual "how-to" books about construction.---
architecture books as references, i know that the books i checked out on architecture are somewhat structurally impossible to achive because ive studied a lot of blue prints my dad brings home from commercial projects. small gas station structures to commercial centers and high schools to elementary schools. i know a few standards towards concrete structures. i noticed 1 image that had a concrete wall for privacy that measured about 30' in lenght 8-12' in height and a thickness of about 1'6-1'10. Thats expensive and unreasonable.

==============
the book i have on fourth edition is actually in a series. they dont update the one i have its in a series each edition covers different approaches and blah blah blah. over all every edition is different when it comes to stuff covered.

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about the rain it could rain all year long. i would worry about the foundation more than the windows.
simple fix to the window's appearance would be to grap the top vertex at the middle of the flat area where the wall intersects and raise it 1 inch. the slope is sufficient at the given distance to the end of the window.

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on
the windows google search press images

[Jack_O'neill]

i noticed 1 image that had a concrete wall for privacy that measured about 30' in lenght 8-12' in height and a thickness of about 1'6-1'10. Thats expensive and unreasonable.

Depends on how much privacy the owner wants or needs. If its an embassy, that ain't enough.

the book i have on fourth edition is actually in a series. they dont update the one i have its in a series each edition covers different approaches and blah blah blah. over all every edition is different when it comes to stuff covered.

What you have is one volume of a series in its 4th edition. The word "edition" refers to the total number of copies printed at one run. A later reprint would be a 5th edition even if they didn't update the information. Terminology is everything. Effective communication depends on using the right words.

about the rain it could rain all year long. i would worry about the foundation more than the windows.
simple fix to the window's appearance would be to grap the top vertex at the middle of the flat area where the wall intersects and raise it 1 inch. the slope is sufficient at the given distance to the end of the window.

Yeah, until the homeowner comes home one day to 6 inches of water on the living room floor and sues your backside off in court for a crummy design. Water will pool on horizontal surfaces. When it does it will either find a way into the building, or it will sit there collecting dirt, leaves, mosquito larvae, and algae until it does find a way in. You can either allow for that in your design or pay for the damages it does later.

Look...you put stuff on here and ask for opinions. When you get anything besides a pat on the back, you whip out the "remember, I'm only 16" bit and argue with the people that are trying to help you. If you want to draw pretty pictures, then draw pretty pictures. Nothing wrong with that, just say that's what you're doing. If you want to design buildings then drop the attitude and learn to do it correctly.

[ReMark]

The curtainwall as depicted in the latest image would require a framing member where it abuts the wall of the house at either end. The glass would not just stop right at the wall like it is shown as there would be no satisfactory way of sealing it. The glass, the framing members and the wall all have different rates of expansion/contraction.

[Jack_O'neill]

The curtainwall as depicted in the latest image would require a framing member where it abuts the wall of the house at either end. The glass would not just stop right at the wall like it is shown as there would be no satisfactory way of sealing it. The glass, the framing members and the wall all have different rates of expansion/contraction.

Yes, and that corner would look something similar to this in cross section:
endwall.JPG

This particular curtainwall product does not attach to the sidewalls. It is supported top and bottom.

[ReMark]

Nice detail there Jack. We using backer bar and caulk at the junction with the wall?

[Jack_O'neill]

Nice detail there Jack. We using backer bar and caulk at the junction with the wall?

Thanks!

Yuppers...backer rod at all caulk joints. That avoids what my old employer calls "3 point adhesion" which they say is the leading cause of premature perimeter seal failure. Caulking will stretch and compress nearly forever if it's stuck on 2 sides, but if it adheres on 3 sides, it will cause a shearing action that will lead to leaks and causes building owners to call you bad names.

Raudel, note the 1" laminated glass in this detail. It's two pieces of 1/4" glass laminated to a 1/2" spacer. The gap between them is filled with an inert gas (varies between manufacturers) to drive out moisture and keep the panes from sweating internally. This provides a much better barrier between the elements and the interior of the structure and greatly reduces the heating and cooling bills as opposed to a single glass. This is what the literature refers to as insulated glass. You can get it tinted, mirrored, even coated with solar cells. By the same token, it is quite heavy, hence the need for beefed up structure. Curtain wall itself is not a structural component. You'll need a pretty hefty lintel or header over this. The weight of the roof and wall above will have to be transfered to the corners. Depending on the width of the span, the structure I show in the detail will have to be increased to accomodate it.