Well the current version of DW (Dreamweaver CS5.5) can also be used in code mode and I would MOST definitely learn to write code. Nothing stopping you from using a text editor like NotePad++ (http://notepad-plus-plus.org/) to write your web pages in. But DW can also be used in Split window mode so you can see the code and how it looks rendered on the page.
See below...
DW-CS55.jpg
Yes, learn the code. Learn html and css at least. You might even want to look at javascript too.
Good luck



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