Residential drawing questions

[J S Machine]

I am trying to draw up a floor plan and I have no set of plans to go by. I have never had any formal training in architectural design either.

 

I just have a couple of questions.

 

1. How exactly are walls dimensioned? I have a picture I found on the internet that shows them being dimensioned on center (interior walls) and then dimensions on the exterior walls going to the edges.

 

Also, how am I supposed to show wall thicknesses? I know a regular 2x4 measures 3.5" across, and if I had a .5" piece of sheet rock on each side that would give me a wall thickness of 4.5". IS this correct? I guess if I were pulling dimensions from the center it wouldn't matter, but with the dimensions being pulled to the faces of the wall lines it would?

 

 

As far as exterior walls, I want this home I'm designing to be built with a brick exterior. I called a local brick company and they said it was hard to say exactly what kind of dimensions I might have because of brick. He said they sell alot of queen size bricks for residential homes. I tried to find dimensions on this style but I can't get a straight answer. I guess it varies by manufacturer. The way I figured exterior wall thickness was the width of the 2x4 - 3.5" + .5" (or I've seen 7/16" in some cases) sheathing, a 1" air gap between the sheathing and brick, and the width of the brick. Is this correct?

 

Thanks

[Ollie8974]

I dimension Edge to Edge. Easier for the framer to know. Some times it is hard to see on a print.

 

Wall Thickness, I use 2x6 and 5/8 wall board. Rather than 2x4. Especially for multi-stories. The 2x6 allows for extra insulation.

 

Exterior walls, 1 inch air gap is correct. A red brick is 8" long x 4" wide x 3 1/2" tall plus 1/2" for mortar. The actual dimension will depend on the manufacture and the style of brick you choose to use. If you use real brick the foundation will need to be extended. This will be spec. out by the engineer. Allow 3/4" for exterior sheeting, depending on what the engineer specs for shear walls

[J S Machine]

I dimension Edge to Edge. Easier for the framer to know. Some times it is hard to see on a print.

 

Wall Thickness, I use 2x6 and 5/8 wall board. Rather than 2x4. Especially for multi-stories. The 2x6 allows for extra insulation.

 

Exterior walls, 1 inch air gap is correct. A red brick is 8" long x 4" wide x 3 1/2" tall plus 1/2" for mortar. The actual dimension will depend on the manufacture and the style of brick you choose to use. If you use real brick the foundation will need to be extended. This will be spec. out by the engineer. Allow 3/4" for exterior sheeting, depending on what the engineer specs for shear walls

 

I guess I am the engineer..lol

[Brooklyn]

I'm a building contractor & a carpenter by trade & I have framed residential homes for 18 years.

I always prefer the building plan to dimension interior walls center to center, exterior walls to interior walls outside to center, exterior wall to exterior wall outside to outside (overall).

2x4 walls @ 4", 2x6 walls @ 6"

I wouldn't get all hung up on drywall thickness & other interior finishes. That's why center to center dimensions work out great for us framers in the field & plumbers if your SFR is built on a concrete slab instead on a platform frame.

[ReMark]

Any good architectural drafting and design book would show you exactly how to dimension the floor plans and the foundation. Go borrow one from your local library or, if you prefer, by one at any big book box store. Most have an architecture section.

[ReMark]

J.S.: You should not double post as it makes following the thread of conversation disjointed. Thanks.

[J S Machine]

I'm a building contractor & a carpenter by trade & I have framed residential homes for 18 years.

I always prefer the building plan to dimension interior walls center to center, exterior walls to interior walls outside to center, exterior wall to exterior wall outside to outside (overall).

2x4 walls @ 4", 2x6 walls @ 6"

I wouldn't get all hung up on drywall thickness & other interior finishes. That's why center to center dimensions work out great for us framers in the field & plumbers if your SFR is built on a concrete slab instead on a platform frame.

 

So I guess on center is the best way to do it. I guess there would be alot less dimensions on the print that way.

 

I'm guessing that even if I draw a 4" interior wall in AutoCAD, whoever is reading the plan knows that this is supposed to be an interior wall and that it may not necessarily maeasure 4" when it is completed.

 

I have been using 8" for my outside walls. Is this correct?

 

As far as 2x6 for extra insulation, I guess it really isn't needed much around here because all of the houses I have seen being framed always had 2x4's. Never seen any 2x6's.

[Tankman]

I often see exterior walls, framed using 2" x 6" lumber.

Insulation! Save heating and cooling costs!

 

Interior walls, 2" x 4" frame.

 

As noted above by those in the trades.

 

Perhaps CTRL 2 the Design Center, might have some floor plans (layouts) you should take a peek-a-boo at.

[Cad64]

JS Machine, I have merged your other thread into this one and deleted your duplicate post.

[J S Machine]

JS Machine, I have merged your other thread into this one and deleted your duplicate post.

 

Many thanks

[Brooklyn]

So I guess on center is the best way to do it. I guess there would be alot less dimensions on the print that way.

Keeps the drawing clean & readable to avoid less mistakes by sub-contractors, less finger pointing, & less bickering.

They can be babies at times

I'm guessing that even if I draw a 4" interior wall in AutoCAD, whoever is reading the plan knows that this is supposed to be an interior wall and that it may not necessarily maeasure 4" when it is completed.

They should know, that's their trade

I have been using 8" for my outside walls. Is this correct?

depends on what the builder or consumer wants for an exterior wall thickness. I live in A.Z. & all tract housing developers use a 2x4 (R-11) for their exterior walls to cut down on building costs & because of our warm climate. All custom home builders use 2x6 (R-19) for their exterior walls for energy efficiency reasons.

As far as 2x6 for extra insulation, I guess it really isn't needed much around here because all of the houses I have seen being framed always had 2x4's. Never seen any 2x6's.

Like I said above, it's a builder/consumer choice on exterior wall thickness.

Your job is to draw a building plan that is properly dimensioned & properly noted with all current residential, state & local, building codes

[CadDan]

Any good architectural drafting and design book would show you exactly how to dimension the floor plans and the foundation. Go borrow one from your local library or, if you prefer, by one at any big book box store. Most have an architecture section.

 

Speaking of great books, My Arch. 1 teacher (from when I was in that class) recommended the class get a book if they were going to get into Architecture.

 

The book is called Building Construction Illustrated by Francis D Ching.

 

Here's a picture so you know what to get.

[flem snopes]

I often see exterior walls, framed using 2" x 6" lumber.

Insulation! Save heating and cooling costs!

 

Interior walls, 2" x 4" frame.

 

As noted above by those in the trades.

 

True re: insulation and 2x4 interior walls except consider spec'ing 2x6 for plumbing walls.

[Tankman]

True re: insulation and 2x4 interior walls except consider spec'ing 2x6 for plumbing walls.

 

I can picture that, more likely behind tub walls. A bit of extra room is nice indeed.

 

If I were custom building, with lots of bucks, I would certainly use 2 x 6's throughout.

 

I've seen a number of custom ranchers, 2 x 6 outside framing but, curiously, some pressure treated (?). I don't know if I would want pressure treated except perhaps the bottom plates.

 

Comments?

 

All the yada, yada 'bout dimensions. What about them?

Clean of all kinds of dimensioning, let the carpenters to their jobs.

When a sheetmetal worker, then a steel worker, our expression was, "We're not making watches." :wink:

[Brooklyn]

I've seen a number of custom ranchers, 2 x 6 outside framing but, curiously, some pressure treated (?). I don't know if I would want pressure treated except perhaps the bottom plates.

Sill plates (bottom plates) are a must to be pressure treated, wolmanized treated, or redwood to act as a termite shield.

In very high humidity areas, such as Hawaii, you will see all pressure treated or wolmanized treated lumber use for all framing members, interior & exterior.

Now, I never been to Hawaii to witness this but 17 years ago I worked with a fella that returned to the continental states from Hawaii & he told me this.

[Tankman]

And, where is Brooklyn? Sounds very familiar.

 

Do they use presure treated wood in Brooklyn?

 

I used a lot of Douglas fir in my house (er I mean barn).

Heavy stuff, 3 1/2" x 11" (actual measurement) stringers and stairs going up 35 ft to the two high lofts.

 

Original basement beams are 12" x 12", hand hewn, circa 1894.

Outside walls 18" thick stone.

[SuperCAD]

So I guess on center is the best way to do it.

 

Hold on there speedy. No offense to the poster who likes it this way, but I've been drawing residential plans for a while now (working with an architect who doesn't have his head up his rear), and I've worked closely with contractors as a lumber supplier. Nearly all of the ones I know HATE center dimensions. They either want the dimensions to one side of the wall or they want the dimensions between each wall. You really have to get a local builders opinion on whatever way reduces the amount of math he has to do in the field, and the way that makes it easier for him to lay out the framing.

 

In other words, don't take our word for it. Talk to the people who will actually be building from your plans.

 

I guess there would be alot less dimensions on the print that way.

 

Not really. You still have to locate each wall on the plan and whether you do that with centers, or to one side, it comes out being nearly the same.

 

I'm guessing that even if I draw a 4" interior wall in AutoCAD, whoever is reading the plan knows that this is supposed to be an interior wall and that it may not necessarily maeasure 4" when it is completed.

 

NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! NO!

 

A wall is NEVER 4". Brick veneer is NEVER 4". There is absolutely NO reason to draw a wall any other size than what it is. If you're using a 2x4 stud, that wall is 3-1/2". 2x6? 5-1/2". Don't cheat your plans and always assume the contractor is an idiot. He may be the best and most knowledgeable building in the history of the planet, or he could be the dumbest thing to ever walk on two legs. Chances are you'll never know, so plan for the worst.

 

I have been using 8" for my outside walls. Is this correct?

 

If you're talking about an 8" poured concrete wall, then yes. If you're specifying CMU (8x8x16 nominal concrete block) walls, then no. The dimension is 7-5/8". If you're drawing a wood framed wall, it will be a 2x8 stud which measures 7-1/4".

 

As far as 2x6 for extra insulation, I guess it really isn't needed much around here because all of the houses I have seen being framed always had 2x4's. Never seen any 2x6's.

 

That is really more dictated by code regulations and the minimum R-value you need to meet. Also, it depends on how tall your walls are, what on center spacing your using for your studs, and how many stories your house will be. There are a lot of factors that go into choosing the proper wall stud. Especially if you've got a tall wall that goes from the first floor deck all the way up to the second floor roof line. Those you need to have an engineer look at because of the wind loads.

 

EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention. Don't dimension to a finished surface unless you're required to show a clearance. Always dimension to the framing since that is what the builder will need.

[Brooklyn]

Hey Tankman, Brooklyn NYC is where I'm from but I live in Arizona now for the last 19 years.

In both locations, D.F. #2 is commonly used but in A.Z. a more dry lumber such as Hem Fir or a spruce pine is used because it adapts well with our dry climate.

[Tankman]

Lived in AZ myself after the USMC, 1968. Mesa, AZ. Joined in Brooklyn, NY '64.

Was a steel/sheetmetal worker in Phoenix, Tempe, Mesa, wherever we went.

 

The lumber in my barn, the stairs 'n stringers measure 3 1/2" x 11", Douglas fir.

Barn supporting beams are 12" x 12" hand hewn "whatever they are", wood.

 

Back in the late 60's, lots of work in AZ. No AutoCAD back then.

[Brooklyn]

Tankman you make me feel young I was born in 1963

4x12 stringers make a beefy stair case