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Foundation plan, please advice!


facad

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I would consider replacing the tub with a nice roomy shower enclosure. That will really open things up in the bathroom. I'd also make the closet smaller. It just needs to hold towels and such. It's not like you'll be using it as a clothes closet.

 

It might be nice to have a window in the bathroom if one could be incorporated.

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Thank you ReMark and Noahma for your time:)!

I did combine both of your orientations and came up with this floor plan (not final).

Please see attachment.

I did work on the rooms, home office and bathroom.

I replaced the bathtub with a shower, in order to gain some space for the bedroom.

The plumber may get mad at me. I did not have a space in the same wall in order to put the sink!

The main entrance should remain in the same place as by my professor, I cannot shift it!

The bump out is bothering me too, but I cannot make changes on the outside wall; as by the professor).

The wall between the kitchen and the dinning room should be a bar (I do not know how to put a bar there), I check the design center, I did not see what I want; it is my first class project:unsure:!

Please not that I did not finish my kitchen and dining room, it’s getting late, I will do it tomorrow!

Note:

I wanted to redimension my new floor plan in a sheet, but I cannot erase the previous dimensions , neither add new ones, did I miss something?

myhouse.pdf

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Master bedroom: No comment at this time. Addendum: You might consider stealing 6" from this room and adding it to the home office.

 

Home office: I would make the distance from the lower left hand corner of the room to the door jamb the same as it is for the master bedroom. The door will open tight to the wall.

 

Kitchen: Put the sink directly in front of the window. The wall where it is now should have a pass-through to the dining room. Put counters on either side of the sink. The stove and refrigerator need to be reoriented. Come back to that later.

 

The 2nd bedroom is too small. Look at how little space you have left between the left hand side of the bed and the wall and the same thing goes for the space between the foot of the bed and the closet wall.

 

Now that you eliminated the door on the right hand side why not capture some of that space and use it for the small bedroom?

 

Bathroom: A person cannot use the toilet with the corner of a closet wall practically on the centerline of the toilet itself. Delete the closet. You have to move the sink away from the shower stall otherwise a person cannot fully open the door to the shower.

 

Your dimensions are so small I cannot read them. Could you please provide us with the actual length and width of the house? Are you using 2x4 or 2x6 construction for the exterior walls? I'm guessing it is 2x6.

 

Addendum: The exterior walls are much thicker than I had first surmised. Is the house going to be brick by any chance?

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Maybe a sketch will help clarify the points I made in my previous post.

 

The "white" house, top image, is your basic design minus of few elements such as door swings, windows, etc.

 

The "yellow" house, bottom image, is your basic design revised as per my comments. Note I stole 6" from the master bedroom to make the home office a bit wider.

 

Student_House.jpg

 

Student_House_REV.jpg

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Master bedroom: No comment at this time. Addendum: You might consider stealing 6" from this room and adding it to the home office.

 

Home office: I would make the distance from the lower left hand corner of the room to the door jamb the same as it is for the master bedroom. The door will open tight to the wall.

 

Kitchen: Put the sink directly in front of the window. The wall where it is now should have a pass-through to the dining room. Put counters on either side of the sink. The stove and refrigerator need to be reoriented. Come back to that later.

 

The 2nd bedroom is too small. Look at how little space you have left between the left hand side of the bed and the wall and the same thing goes for the space between the foot of the bed and the closet wall.

 

Now that you eliminated the door on the right hand side why not capture some of that space and use it for the small bedroom?

 

Bathroom: A person cannot use the toilet with the corner of a closet wall practically on the centerline of the toilet itself. Delete the closet. You have to move the sink away from the shower stall otherwise a person cannot fully open the door to the shower.

 

Your dimensions are so small I cannot read them. Could you please provide us with the actual length and width of the house? Are you using 2x4 or 2x6 construction for the exterior walls? I'm guessing it is 2x6.

 

Addendum: The exterior walls are much thicker than I had first surmised. Is the house going to be brick by any chance?

 

 

 

 

 

ReMark! I thank you for your time , you are motivating me (Noahma too) to work harder in order to get another A in this class.

Architectural is not my domaine, but I do love what I am learning.

I love the floor plan that you did suggest, it is more logic than my previous one.

I did some modifications.

for the kitchen; since I have already a passthru between the kitchen and the dining room, I was thinking about replacing the wall between the kitchen and the dining room with a bar, I do not know how to make a bar!

I did add counters, I may move the refrigirator, it is not final anyway.

The house size is 48' * 26'

The exterior walls are 10" thick

The interior walls are 5" thick

I do not know yet if the house will be brick, I have a lot of things to learn:unsure:!

Please take a look at the floor plan based on your thoughts.

it`s not final!

myhouse.pdf

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10" walls? Is this because you're interested in super-insulating the house to reduce heating and cooling costs?

 

You did not specify if the house was going to be frame construction or masonary.

 

What prompted you to want to create a bar?

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Alright, I've had a look at your latest plan and I do have one comment. Refer to the image below. See the black triangle I've laid out in the kitchen between the sink, stove and refrigerator? OK...it doesn't work. The legs of the triangle should be relatively the same length and they aren't. It's too many steps from the refrigerator to the sink. In my opinion the refrigerator should go on the wall that separates the kitchen from the dining area. I would also suggest moving the dishwasher closer to the sink because most new houses have garbage disposal units under the sink. People scrape the plates off, rinse them then stack the dishwasher.

 

Work_Triangle.jpg

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Upon further study I have a comment re: the bathroom. I would put the sink back on the opposite wall where it started but I would move it far enough away from the shower so the shower door won't hit it. And where you have the sink now I would consider putting a free-standing towel shelf that backs up against the closet and is about 12" deep.

 

Personal opinion now. I'm not a fan of pedestal sinks. It seems there is never enough room to put things down. When a couple or a family has just one bathroom the area around the sink becomes real cluttered, real fast. I'd give some thought to a sink/vanity combo tucked into the upper left-hand corner of the bathroom. Just a suggestion.

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The image below illustrates my point about the sink, stove and refrigerator work triangle. I added a "bar" or "breakfast shelf" or whatever you want to call it. I imagine it would be high enough off the floor that stools could be used instead of chairs.

 

Student_Kitchen.jpg

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Alright, I've had a look at your latest plan and I do have one comment. Refer to the image below. See the black triangle I've laid out in the kitchen between the sink, stove and refrigerator? OK...it doesn't work. The legs of the triangle should be relatively the same length and they aren't. It's too many steps from the refrigerator to the sink. In my opinion the refrigerator should go on the wall that separates the kitchen from the dining area. I would also suggest moving the dishwasher closer to the sink because most new houses have garbage disposal units under the sink. People scrape the plates off, rinse them then stack the dishwasher.

 

[ATTACH]18036[/ATTACH]

 

Thank you ReMark and Noahma for your time:)!

I did combine both of your orientations and came up with this floor plan (not final).

Please see attachment.

I did work on the rooms, home office and bathroom.

I replaced the bathtub with a shower, in order to gain some space for the bedroom.

The plumber may get mad at me. I did not have a space in the same wall in order to put the sink!

The main entrance should remain in the same place as by my professor, I cannot shift it!

The bump out is bothering me too, but I cannot make changes on the outside wall; as by the professor).

The wall between the kitchen and the dinning room should be a bar (I do not know how to put a bar there), I check the design center, I did not see what I want; it is my first class project:unsure:!

Please not that I did not finish my kitchen and dining room, it’s getting late, I will do it tomorrow!

 

Note:

I wanted to redimension my new floor plan in a sheet, but I cannot erase the previous dimensions , neither add new ones, did I miss something?

 

I will go through the posts since my last one lol one at a time.

 

The bathroom will still need some work. I would take and move the shower where you are showing the toilet in this version. Move the toilet to the left most wall. and push it down just outside of the odd shaped area to the bottom of the plan. Check to make sure you have a min. of 2'-6" in front of it for standing room. Place the sink above the toilet against the wall. This is the only bathroom in the house, So a pedestal sink is not going to cut it. I would put the sink within a cabinet (there are some pre made styles in the catalog) I would remove the small closet in the bathroom, and enlarge the shower to encompass this area. Check to make sure you have enough swing for the shower door. The main problem is the depth in the bathroom. You will need a min. of 5' left to right, and then you can get all the goodies in. IE a tub/shwr. combo, toilet, and vanity. The bedroom next to the bath still needs work, it is way to small to work. Remark in a later post has a great solution to the problem. Remove the upper most wall to this bedroom, and extend the right wall up to the bedroom above. Place the door to the bedroom in the end of that hall to enter the bedroom. I would then remove the closet from its current location and move it to the upper left of the room. Remember a standard depth for the clo. is 2'-0 1/2" from inside of stud, to inside of stud. Leave 3'-0" from the newly created entrance to this bedroom for travel space. So the closet will encompass the upper portion of the wall from the exterior wall at left, stretching along the wall to within 3'-0" of the door entering the room. The reason for this is for the sake of the elevation. Your front elevation lacks any windows on that side of the house. Any windows in this room should face something that might have the chance of a view IE the front of the house, rather than the side of the house. I think the bedroom in the upper left is fine as is. I would move the bed to the wall on the left, and move that window on the rear of the house for the same reason listed above. The home office, while small seems to be more functional now. The entry to me still has way to much wasted space, but for the reasons you listed with your professor unwilling to let you move the exterior walls, I think you are stuck with it. The windows in the front of the living room should still be centered in this wall for reason of elevation cohesion. For the kitchen and dining room. I still think that a bar top along the side separating the kitchen and dining would be a good idea. There is a pre designed style in the content catalog within ACA. Cabinets should wrap the entire kitchen with a min. of

3'-0 and a recommended distance of 3'-6" left to right between face of cab. to face of cab. The sink would work very well directly under the window in the rear of the house. The range should be centered in the kitchen wall to the left, with the ref. below that on the same wall. I would then put an opening into the living from the kitchen in the wall between the two rooms. This will really open the floor plan, and allow easy travel independently from each room. Right now the flow path into the kitchen brings you into the dining room, which is more travel than is needed.

 

Those are the floor plan changes I would recommend. If you would like. When I get home from work, lol I design homes for myself rather than clients. I do this as a way to sharpen my design and allow me to get what I would like in a house lol. I have plenty of these just sitting around, and I would be happy to send one of these sets to you as an example of some standard sizes (just send me a PM). They are in DWF format, so you will have to download and install Design review from Autodesk (which is a free download) Remark, your welcome to one as well :)

 

Is there a reason for the choice in your exterior walls? They appear to be very thick. Was this for a CMU, SIP or other energy materials? If this is to be a standard framed house, 2x6 (1.5"x5.5") exterior framed wall should suffice, if your adding brick then you would have 4" added onto that under a lighter line weight.

 

If your doing this in 2d instead of using Autocad Architecture items, let me know and I can talk you through how to display your bar top, and other different items you might encounter. If any of my advice does not do so well in word format, let me know I can do a quick sketch as well.

 

Let us know when you start elevations too, and if you go as far as sections and framing plans. (giggles with excitement) I do enjoy my job too much lol

 

 

Your doing a great job, and taking our advice well :)

 

Keep it up.

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I do need to print out your posts Noahma and Remark, I have to go to the library to do that, shame on me, I do not have a printer:(.

I will return my assignment after spring break.

I did read your posts and I will answer them soon, something came up!

I appreciate a lot:).

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  • 2 weeks later...
10" walls? Is this because you're interested in super-insulating the house to reduce heating and cooling costs?

 

You did not specify if the house was going to be frame construction or masonary.

 

What prompted you to want to create a bar?

 

10" exterior walls was the professor choice.

The house should be framed masonary.

A bar will give more light to the kitchen, it make it easy to set up the dining room table:)!

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I will go through the posts since my last one lol one at a time.

 

The bathroom will still need some work. I would take and move the shower where you are showing the toilet in this version. Move the toilet to the left most wall. and push it down just outside of the odd shaped area to the bottom of the plan. Check to make sure you have a min. of 2'-6" in front of it for standing room. Place the sink above the toilet against the wall. This is the only bathroom in the house, So a pedestal sink is not going to cut it. I would put the sink within a cabinet (there are some pre made styles in the catalog) I would remove the small closet in the bathroom, and enlarge the shower to encompass this area. Check to make sure you have enough swing for the shower door. The main problem is the depth in the bathroom. You will need a min. of 5' left to right, and then you can get all the goodies in. IE a tub/shwr. combo, toilet, and vanity. The bedroom next to the bath still needs work, it is way to small to work. Remark in a later post has a great solution to the problem. Remove the upper most wall to this bedroom, and extend the right wall up to the bedroom above. Place the door to the bedroom in the end of that hall to enter the bedroom. I would then remove the closet from its current location and move it to the upper left of the room. Remember a standard depth for the clo. is 2'-0 1/2" from inside of stud, to inside of stud. Leave 3'-0" from the newly created entrance to this bedroom for travel space. So the closet will encompass the upper portion of the wall from the exterior wall at left, stretching along the wall to within 3'-0" of the door entering the room. The reason for this is for the sake of the elevation. Your front elevation lacks any windows on that side of the house. Any windows in this room should face something that might have the chance of a view IE the front of the house, rather than the side of the house. I think the bedroom in the upper left is fine as is. I would move the bed to the wall on the left, and move that window on the rear of the house for the same reason listed above. The home office, while small seems to be more functional now. The entry to me still has way to much wasted space, but for the reasons you listed with your professor unwilling to let you move the exterior walls, I think you are stuck with it. The windows in the front of the living room should still be centered in this wall for reason of elevation cohesion. For the kitchen and dining room. I still think that a bar top along the side separating the kitchen and dining would be a good idea. There is a pre designed style in the content catalog within ACA. Cabinets should wrap the entire kitchen with a min. of

3'-0 and a recommended distance of 3'-6" left to right between face of cab. to face of cab. The sink would work very well directly under the window in the rear of the house. The range should be centered in the kitchen wall to the left, with the ref. below that on the same wall. I would then put an opening into the living from the kitchen in the wall between the two rooms. This will really open the floor plan, and allow easy travel independently from each room. Right now the flow path into the kitchen brings you into the dining room, which is more travel than is needed.

 

Those are the floor plan changes I would recommend. If you would like. When I get home from work, lol I design homes for myself rather than clients. I do this as a way to sharpen my design and allow me to get what I would like in a house lol. I have plenty of these just sitting around, and I would be happy to send one of these sets to you as an example of some standard sizes (just send me a PM). They are in DWF format, so you will have to download and install Design review from Autodesk (which is a free download) Remark, your welcome to one as well :)

 

Is there a reason for the choice in your exterior walls? They appear to be very thick. Was this for a CMU, SIP or other energy materials? If this is to be a standard framed house, 2x6 (1.5"x5.5") exterior framed wall should suffice, if your adding brick then you would have 4" added onto that under a lighter line weight.

 

If your doing this in 2d instead of using Autocad Architecture items, let me know and I can talk you through how to display your bar top, and other different items you might encounter. If any of my advice does not do so well in word format, let me know I can do a quick sketch as well.

 

Let us know when you start elevations too, and if you go as far as sections and framing plans. (giggles with excitement) I do enjoy my job too much lol

 

 

Your doing a great job, and taking our advice well :)

 

Keep it up.

 

Noahma;

I am going to take in consideration your remarks for my next project, I am very late for this one, we are moving to other things.

I did print out these precious advices and add them to my note book.

I will post my final work as soon as I finish it.

I appreciate a lot your help and Remark`s help as well:).

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Noahma;

I am going to take in consideration your remarks for my next project, I am very late for this one, we are moving to other things.

I did print out these precious advices and add them to my note book.

I will post my final work as soon as I finish it.

I appreciate a lot your help and Remark`s help as well:).

 

You are quite welcome. We are here to help when you need it :)

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