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Filling or moving holes AutoCad 2007


Berzerker

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If you use -vpoint 1,1,1 a quick way to get to isometric view. Using "list" pick one of your objects do UCS W 1st. You can see the bounding box and it indicates that the model is above the z zero plane.

 

3DSOLID   Layer: "0"
                            Space: Model space
  
   Bounding Box: Lower Bound X = 5.627    , Y = 11.937   , Z = 1.251
                 Upper Bound X = 9.627    , Y = 18.687   , Z = 2.501

 

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OK when I done this I get attached pic. The Z plain needs to be in the positive right ? I remember this command from a long time ago but I haven't had to use it in years.

That was a big help BIGAL thanks.

list.JPG

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When my friend contacts me and has time to get started on it I will let him know to check them before hitting the "print" button. 

I think I fixed it when I went back and checked and redone them. I'll let you know (?)              

 

My other problem got it solved without having to set up a print server. It was a bad hard drive (!) I have been waiting on it for about 5 days when it came it I spent yesterday installing the drivers and some software on it. Just for curiosity's sake I done one of those things I read online and it printed. Now I can print from anywhere in my house.

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Seeing's how this is in the solid model section I got another question. Lets say you wanted to put two different colors as a solid. When I union them it turns all but one face the color of the other one.  Can I make it two different colors when they're joined.

 

This place needs a "Who's online"

Thanks

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I don't think you can retain the color information when you Union. The object will take on the color information of the first solid you select.

 

As for Who's Online? Go to the main page and scroll all the way to the bottom.

Whos Online.jpg

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30 minutes ago, Berzerker said:

Can I make it two different colors when they're joined.

 

You can change the colors after you Union though, as in the case below. I unioned the cylinder to the box, then I used the SOLIDEDIT command, "Face" and "Color" options to change the color of the cylinder to red.

Colors.jpg

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Just goes to show you how much I pay attention I to what I'm doing huh. I never even looked there.

I join the forum every morning and just go to scrolling down. To see if I can help  "BIG (?)".

I do something in AutoCad almost everyday. I was kinda forced into putting a heatsink on my project and now I'm looking into can I use the mounting plate as the heatsink.

Heatsink is aluminum, the mounting plate is aluminum so why can't I just use it ? So I'm drawing some of the other stuff in 3D that I never got around to making it 3D.

Edited by Berzerker
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Got another question about line weight when plotting. I have my line weight on and have set the adjustment to max. When I read more on this subject it tells me I might have to change settings in my plot manager. what do I look for and what do I change to get this to print thicker lines.

Line weight.JPG

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Right-click on a layout and select 'plot setup manager' and the 'modify' from there just tick the 'plot lineweight' box and that's it. You also get the same option when you are in the plot dialogue

 

PlotLine.jpg

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After looking for other ways to do this I ran across this: https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/building-materials/raw-material-supply/raw-material-supply-plastics/acetal-rectangular-bar-48l-x-3-1-2w-x-1-8-thick-natural

48" long 1/8" X 3 1/2" plastic flat bar....Cost $1.94 each at 6"

This could be punched , right? .078 could be done in this?

punch jig.JPG

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I think I've become a 3D monster. My only concern is when you cut the long piece will it mess up the next one that will be inserted.

Edited by Berzerker
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I would not recommend punching holes in Acetal, some recommend against tapping as well, the threads tighten up, which could work for you or against you, and punched holes really deform IIRC. You can drill bigger and use an insert or if you can some self-tapping screws might work. 

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@SLW210

The specs said it was machinable.

quote from website above

High strength, stiffness

Easy to machine

 

I've worked with UHMW and Nylatron before and they seemed to machine well and could be tapped and hold form well. Can't say I remember any acetal that we used. Nylatron is great it's rigid, hard as a rock and can be tapped but it's also very expensive.

 I'm just looking at different options. You gotta admit I do my research very well.

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I didn't say you couldn't machine it, it just isn't optimal for tapping threads, ultimately if doing it works for you that's fine. I stated "the threads tighten up, which could work for you or against you". You just need to see if that works. I know punching will not work very well in my experience for tapped holes. Only why to find out would be try it.

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